Cleaning Iron Relics

The electrolysis of Civil War artillery shells or iron relics are fairly easy with the system put together by Civil War Relic Hunter/Historian Steve Corrigan. He did not invent the system but made some improvements and put together a kit that does the job well. One of the problems with iron relics which have not been cleaned and treated is that rust will cause deep pitting and cause eventual distruction of the relic. Electrolysis does a tremendous job on cleaning the surface rust quickly.  

Cartersville High School Coach Steve Corrigan has simplified the electroysis process using the kit that he has put together. On the right is the electroysis set up that is also very portable. Inside the plastic tub is a tin pan which plays an important part in the process. The first step is to have the required equipment.

The other items needed for the system is a 6 volt battery charger ($30.00 at most auto parts stores), a box of Cascade dish washing powder, and various clamps for cleaning artillery shells.

The clamps are used for cleaning shells. Note the special contact pin at end of the clamp that makes good contact with the metal. This eliminates having to drill a hole and use a tap screw to make good electrolysis contact. Here Steve uses a six pound solid shot for the demonstration. 

Steve attaches small relics to the aligator clips. Note that the negative clips are attached to the iron relics. The positive clip is attached to the stainless steel pan. The clips used are nickel plated. Copper clips will cause copper to be attached to the relic itself.

After the relics are connected. It is covered with a solution of Cascade, add 1/3 to 1/2 cup per 5 gallons of water (mix thoughly and add enough to cover the relics). This solution is called the electrolyte and permits the flow of electricity (negative to the relic, positive to the tank) to flow freely from relic to tank.

Next attach the battery charger with the negative leads to the copper bar which is connected to the relics. The positive lead is attached to the stainless steel pan. Make sure that this process is done outside. The process produces hydrogen gas that can become explosive or flamable. Don't turn on the battery charger until everything is in place and attached. It can give you a shock.

You will see immediate action, which is bubbling on the surface of the water and the water will turn a muddy rust color.  After an hour or two, check the progress of the rust removal (make sure you unplug the battery charger first). It will not take long. Artillery shells will take longer and you will know how long to use this process with experience.

The waste water is iron rich and will make a good recycled water for the lawn. But the solution is fairly alkaline, so use gloves and eye protection.

After the shell/relic has been thoughly cleaned through electrolysis, it should be cleaned with an wire brush and rinsed off. Small cracks and crevices still have to be chipped out with a hammer, pick, or awl punch (expecially with artillery shells or large iron relics). I use an engraver which efficiently knocks out small rust out of cracks. After removing the rust, a coating should be applied to protect the metal from future rust. Some of the old timers would simply use polyurethane varnish. I personally prefer to use dark brown colored Briwax which seals up the pores and protects the shell. A lot of museums are using the Briwax method. To apply the Briwax, heat the iron relic with a sun lamp until the item is very warm (not too hot). Then apply the Briwax, completely covering the iron. Let cool and then buff with a soft cloth.

For more information on cleaning iron artillery shells/iron relics or to simply buy one of his electrolysis systems, contact Steve Corrigan, stevencorrigan@bellsouth.net.